The story behind Nita Ambani’s Kanjeevaram sari: ‘Woven in pure gold zari’

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. 

The body of the fabric is adorned with an all-over repeat of the Mayil, where the peacock symbolises grace and prosperity, and the Chakram represents eternity and cosmic balance — both intricately woven in pure gold zari.

“The traditional Korvai technique interlocks the striking pink and black border with the body during weaving itself, a mark of Kanchipuram’s most skilled craftsmen,” Malhotra further added.

What makes it so special?

Binal Patel, founder of brand Binal Patel, told indianexpress.com that the Kanjeevaram sari finds its origins, and name, in Tamil Nadu’s Kanchipuram, a temple town famous for silk weaving.

“Legend has it that the Kanchi silk weaver behind these saris is a descendant of Sage Markanda — Gods’ master weaver — known to craft exquisite pieces from delicate lotus fibres,” she shared, adding that originally nine yards in length, Kanjeevaram saris evolved over time into the iconic six-yard versions. The craft of Kanjeevaram sari weaving spans 400 years, and is traditionally practised within temple confines by dedicated artisans, she explained.

“In South Indian weddings, Kanjeevaram silk saris, representing purity, elegance and prosperity, hold a place of honour,” said Varghese. Bharatanatyam dancers, too, embrace these silks saris to enhance grace and grandeur of their performance through its rich textures and vibrant colours.

John Varghese, professor at the School of Fashion, World University of Design, further explained that the border, body, and pallu of Kanjeevaram saris are woven simultaneously as three distinct components, directly on the loom, without any attachment or stitching later. This technique results in three vibrant and solid colour ground areas—one each for the body, border, and pallu—made possible by combining the Korvai and Petni techniques.

“The Korvai technique employs an interlocked weft tapestry technique method to weave distinct borders simultaneously with the body, using three shuttles for this part of the saris,” said Varghese, adding that Kanjeevaram saris generally have a unique design or motif different from its body, mostly traditional motifs inspired by South Indian culture, mythology, or nature.

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to.